9-Day Solo Female India Travel Diaries

Day 1-3: Udaipur, the City of Lakes

Rajasthan's Udaipur, was my first stop in India. Known as the City of Lakes, imagine the Indian version of Venice, minus the gondolas but with more palaces.. It's a place rich with history, and intricate architectures, featuring carvings and colourful details everywhere you look.

The whole place has a super romantic feel, which explains why it's a popular spot for couples and weddings. Apparently that weekend when I was there, there were over 100 weddings taking place all over the city, as it was believed to be the best dates for marriage according to astrological reasons.

My friend's incredible Indian wedding, truly one of the most memorable events I've ever been to, was the initial reason that sparked my visit here.

The first 2 days in India were spent celebrating the gorgeous couple and the venue was absolutely stunning. I knew very little about Indian traditions for weddings but now I can say that Indian weddings are super fun and would recommend in participating if you ever get a chance.

Accomodation

I didn't stay at Chunda Palace (the wedding venue) for my stay in Udaipur, but there were many hotels in that area so my stay, Infinia Stays, was just across the road and much cheaper in comparison. The room itself was nice, but the surrounding areas were just rubble and walking back at night alone made me slightly uneasy as the road was unlit and there were a few stray dogs barking. It was dead silent at night too, which personally creeped me out but I guess it's good for a sound night's sleep.

12 hours in Udaipur

After the wedding was all wrapped up, on my third day in Udaipur and in India, I had a full day to explore Udaipur before my overnight train to Agra.

After packing up and checking out, I joined some of my new wedding friends to kick things off at the City Palace. I actually had no idea Udaipur existed before the wedding, but its relaxed vibe makes it a perfect starting point for any Indian adventure!

The City Palace in Udaipur is a must-see for anyone visiting Rajasthan. It is a huge palace complex that was built over nearly 400 years, and it's the largest palace in Rajasthan.

Started in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II, and it reflects the Mewar dynasty's reign. Perched on a hill overlooking Lake Pichola, it offers breathtaking views and I certainly enjoyed how beautiful it was on this particular day.

The architectural style of this place was a fusion of Rajput styles, with balconies, towers, and courtyards and many corners of this place was very Instagrammable. Not only was it popular with foreign tourists like myself, but it was also very busy with local Indian tourists too.

After a delicious Rajasthani lunch, we explored the beautiful Jagdish Temple. When we arrived, there was a prayer happening inside so we didn't go in to disturb the ceremony, but the intricate architecture of the temple itself was incredible.

Flagging down a tuk-tuk outside the temple as we tried to make our way to Lake Pichola, we discovered our drivers enjoying a roadside chai – and of course, I had to join in! It was piping hot and took a while for me to be able to sip but once it was cool enough, it was absolutely delicious.

As the drivers taught me:

"garam garam chai" (hot hot tea)

Since this was the city known as the City of Lakes, a boat ride was a must once we reached the gorgeous Lake Pichola.

It took around 20 minutes or so and we were instructed to board and be seated with our life jackets the whole time. Safety first!

It was a really nice change of perspective viewing the surrounding scenery of Udaipur on the lake itself. Despite how hectic India can be, on the lake, it felt serene and peaceful.

The afternoon flew by, and as the sun began to dip, we grabbed some snacks – masala guava and bel puri (both surprisingly kind on my stomach!).

This was followed by a gondola ride up to the top for some sunset views. The warm hues of the sun beamed over the landscapes of Udaipur. It was beautiful up there.

A final lakeside dinner with my newfound friends capped off the day before my train to Agra. We ordered a few more of the Udaipur specialties including Dal Bati Churma and some classic chicken tikka, with a side of a rich Laal Maas, which is the Rajasthani classic mutton curry.

Now, about that train ride…

Top tips

• ‍The weather at the start of March was surprisingly chilly, despite it being quite warm and hot in the day under the sun. When the sun set, a shawl or light jacket was definitely needed.‍
• Getting around was relatively easy, especially with an auto rickshaw. We paid around 100-150 per ride, sharing between 2-3 people each time, for a 10-15 min journey. That, in hindsight, compared to other places like Jaipur, was 3x more expensive. In Jaipur, auto prices were way cheaper, but I guess this is due to Udaipur being a tourist destination for many, including local Indian tourists.

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Overnight Train To Agra

Bidding farewell to my newfound friends, I reached the station around 9:40 pm.

The enormity of being solo in India suddenly hit me. Boarding the seemingly endless train, I embarked on a quest to find my first-class cabin.

I had pre-booked my train tickets about 3 weeks ahead of time. It was said that train tickets often sell out so I really wanted to secure the exact train and seats that I wanted.

Upon booking, it turns out that seats for first-class aren't allocated until 4 hours prior to departure, so it wasn't until around 8pm that day did I find out my seat allocation. With that piece of information, I was able to identify by cabin for the night, so just a heads up that this might also be your experience.

I've got to admit, I'm not sure what I was expecting for the cabins but they were actually pretty nice. This cozy haven, complete with a bunk bed and a tiny staircase, exceeded my very basic expectations.

I was the first to arrive in my 4-person cabin so I made myself comfortable and made my way up the tiny staircase that led to my upper bunk. The staff soon arrived with bedding – a single pillow, a towel (a pleasant surprise), sheets, and blankets. Not bad at all!

Two fellow passengers, an Englishman and an Indian man, joined me shortly after. Both were in their 20s and spoke good English so it wasn’t long before we started chatting and breaking the ice, discussing where we’d all travelled from and what brought us here. That settled my nerves a bit as I was a little apprehensive about sharing a small cabin overnight with two strangers that I didn’t know. But then again, I thought to myself, it's no different than sharing a hostel room with strangers...?

After a strategic bathroom break (basic but at least the toilet functioned and was reasonably clean for a train washroom, I returned to find the cabin lights out. I scrolled on my phone for a bit to the rhythmic movement of the train as it sped towards Agra and drifted off to sleep. To my surprise, I slept soundly for several hours.

People in my cabin began departing as the train made several stops along the way, and by the time morning came around, I was fully awake. The 675-kilometre journey took about 12 hours, and incredibly, the train arrived right on schedule, around 10:30am.

Would I take the train again? Yes, absolutely. It was super smooth and a highly enjoyable experience (given that I was in the First Class compartments).

Top tips for trains bookings

• ‍Plan in advance: Train tickets, especially for popular routes and peak seasons, can sell out quickly. Book your tickets as early as possible (reservations open 120 days in advance). ‍
• Book online if possible: I booked mine via 12go.asia (I've used this many times before for Thailand and Vietnam etc so I trust it) which does charge a small booking and administration fee, but it was worth it (and also a very negligible amount). The official website for IRCTC (Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation) has a lot of widest selection of trains and routes, but the interface can be a bit complex. Plus, you'll need to create an account to book tickets which to me was too much extra faff.
• Seat allocations: if, like me you're booking a flrst-class seat/cabin, it's normal to not be assigned a seat when you pay and book your ticket. This is disclosed around 4 hours prior to departure, and you can find this information online. I got mine from the link shared in my booking confirmation, after entering my train info.
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Day 4: Agra, with Uncle Vikram

I braved Agra on my own – well, kind of. After a long journey on a sleeper train, I disembarked in Agra, a little unsure how to tackle this vibrant city solo. That's when fate (or maybe just good luck?) intervened in the form of Vikram, the cutest tuk-tuk driver you've ever seen!

Vikram offered his services for the day – a whirlwind tour of Agra for just 1000 rupees (under £10) for 8 hours.

Now, I'll admit, I was initially skeptical. Scams are a real concern for solo travellers, especially in a new country. But then, Vikram whipped out his secret weapon: a little notebook overflowing with glowing reviews from tourists around the world who had sung his praises.

This unexpected display of trust won me over, and I took a leap of faith, hiring Vikram for the day.

Vikram wasn't just a driver; he became my personal Agra guru. With adorable uncle/grandpa vibes, he explained the city's hidden gems, from historical monuments to local delicacies. He even played the role of a friendly protector, warning me about potential tourist traps.

In hindsight, I'm so glad I trusted my gut and hired Vikram, especially on my first full solo day in India.

Before diving into the sights, Vikram whisked me away for a delicious lunch of chicken tikka masala, garlic naan, and refreshing lassi – essential Agra fuel, right?

Admittedly, I felt a little weirded out as to why Vikram had brought me to a hotel restaurant with almost all tourists and he later explained that it was because he wanted to make sure I wasn't going to get an upset stomach eating local food when I had a full day of exploring Agra in front of me.

Fair enough, I thought.

‍The Baby Taj

Our first stop was the stunning Baby Taj Mahal, and Vikram pulled aside on a motorway bridge on the other side of the river as he explained that this was the best place for a full view of the palace.

With the noise of the many passing tuk-tuks, he explained that this was built by Jahangir 25 years before its bigger brother - the Taj Mahal. It was certainly smaller in scale, but it still held its own charm. Vikram even showed me a few other secret (well, maybe not so secret) free viewpoint overlooking the Taj Mahal – a budget traveler's dream and bless him for driving me around for this.

Agra Fort

Next, we ventured to Agra Fort, which also offered a fantastic view of the Taj Mahal.

Before entering, Vikram, ever the guide, also warned me about the vendors around the area, advising me to steer clear of "rubbish, expensive, and cheating" products in case I was approached for souvenirs and other things to purchase. I couldn't help but giggle at the way he was so serious about it. I nodded as he listed all the things I should be wary of.

Despite dressing modestly for my visit to Agra Fort, the few hours I spent there were punctuated by frequent interactions with local tourists. While I understand the novelty factor for some, the constant pointing, staring, and even unsolicited snickers made me increasingly uncomfortable.

Some visitors even went so far as to take photos without permission, which was frustrating. Others, though initially polite in requesting a photo, turned the interaction into a five-minute ordeal where their entire group took turns posing with me, often with overly familiar physical contact.

While this wasn't the highlight of my Agra experience, I tried to remain positive and focus on the historical significance of the fort itself.

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As the sun began to set, Vikram dropped me off at a restaurant nearby to my hostel. Now, Vikram wasn't above a little self-interest.

Admittedly, there were a few souvenir stops on the itinerary, places where he likely gets a commission on purchases (totally understandable and not entirely unexpected). While I wasn't tempted by any trinkets, I definitely made sure he was well-tipped for his excellent service.

Tired from a whole day of travelling on not much sleep, I found myself chatting with a couple of other solo travellers who were also enjoying a meal.

We ended up spending the rest of the evening together, sharing stories and travel tips.  It was a reminder that even when you're traveling alone, there's always the chance to meet amazing people along the way.

Accommodation

Don't stay at the hostel I chose. It was so bad. I couldn't wait to leave the next morning. It was called HOT - house of travellers

I booked this place solely because it was within walking distance to the Taj Mahal. Unfortunately, the room was quite untidy and not cleaned upon arrival.

To my surprise, they hadn't assigned me a specific bed. I chose one myself, but honestly, it was difficult to tell which one was truly clean as they all appeared slightly used.  Hesitantly, I considered leaving, but the receptionist assured me they would clean it immediately.

They did change the bed sheets and gave the bathroom a cursory cleaning, focusing only on the obvious areas. However, on closer inspection, the shower soap caddy was filthy, and the shower itself was disappointing with very poor water pressure. Despite these issues, I decided to stay for the night as my main purpose was to witness the sunrise at the Taj Mahal. Needless to say, I left promptly after.

That being said, I have to add that the price I paid was £3/night. So I suppose it was a clear case of getting what you paid for, so my personal fault really... 😬

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Day 5: the Taj Mahal

Imagine the most stunning building you've ever seen, then picture it even better. That's the Taj Mahal.

This day was undoubtedly one of my favourite days in India. I didn't think I'd be that impressed by the Taj Mahal but I really was. It was truly breathtakingly magnificent and worth all the effort that I went through to be there.

This ivory-white marble mausoleum is like a giant love letter in stone. Built by emperor Shah Jahan for his wife Mumtaz Mahal, it's no surprise it's considered one of the most beautiful buildings on Earth.

The whole place is symmetrical, with perfect arches leading you to a central chamber topped by a massive dome. The real magic happens with the details as there are tiny flowers inlaid manually with precious stones all over the marble. It makes the whole building shimmer in the sunlight.

Fun fact: the four columns surrounding the Taj tilts ever so slightly away from the palace as it was designs this way to prevent them collapsing on the Taj in an event of an earthquake. So smart, if you ask me!

The Taj at Sunrise

‍The allure of witnessing the Taj Mahal bathed in the golden hues of dawn was undeniable. Luckily, I wasn't embarking on this pre-dawn adventure alone.

The night before, I had befriended a fellow solo traveller and together we decided to brave the early hour together to witness this architectural marvel. It was at 6am I realised that there were many others just like myself who were up early and made their way to the Taj before sun had risen. The walk in the dark didn't seem that risky after all.

I felt myself buzz with excitement the moment we stepped through the majestic gates.

The Taj Mahal at sunrise is truly a spectacle that defies description. The first rays of dawn kissed the white marble, transforming it into a canvas of ever-shifting hues – a breathtaking testament to Mughal artistry. The crisp morning air added a touch of invigorating chill, bundled in my warm hoodie, I stood mesmerised.

I literally let out an audibly "wow" as I approached it. Myself, like many others at that exact moment, all united in our appreciation for this architectural marvel that stood before us.

Following a photo session worthy of a travel blog (because, let's face it, the Taj Mahal demands and so very much deserves to be documented!), we ventured inside to explore what lies inside the great structure.

The intricate details of the mausoleum were even more impressive up close, the play of morning light on the interior adding another layer of enchantment and I genuinely couldn't stop inspecting and admiring the rich details that was literally in every corner of this place.

After all the excitement in the morning, I was famished and devoured a big plate of hearty breakfast to refuel.

The remainder of the day was dedicated to relaxation as I was pretty burnt out from waking up so early. Speaking of which, my next stop is Jaipur, and let's just say it wasn't quite the paradise I envisioned.

Top Tips for the Taj Mahal

• Skip the oversized bags to avoid lengthy security checks.
• Book your tickets online for a quick and easy entry using a QR code.

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Day 5-7: Jaipur, the Pink City

Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, India, is also known as the Pink City due to its iconic buildings.

Founded in 1727 by a Maharaja with a fondness for the colour, Jaipur boasts a unique visual aesthetic. While it wasn't my personal favourite destination on my Indian trip, there's no denying its visual appeal and the photo opportunities it offers.

The Must-See Stuff

• Amber Fort: a giant fort set on a hill, this is one of the most popular spots for tourism in Jaipur. Explore its halls and pretend you're a Mughal emperor. Famed for its beautiful, ornate glass work on the walls and ceilings, the Sheesh Mahal (the Glass Palace was my favourite of all here)
• Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds): This notable and stunning palace with 953 windows looks like something straight out of a fairytale. I found that it was best visited around 10am as it was less crowded and the direction of the sun meant that you get the best pictures around that time.
• City Palace: I didn't actually visit as I was quite palaced-out by the time I got round to here. But from photos and people's reviews, it looks like a great place to pass a few hours and take more pretty pictures.
• Jantar Mantar: I loved this observatory. It was really different to the many palaces I had visited up until then. Forget fancy telescopes, this open-air observatory uses giant instruments to predict the weather and stuff. Think giant sundials and cool geometric shapes and a very interesting place to learn something new.
• Nahargarh Fort: I was recommended this but again I never made it up there. However, it's known as one of the hot spots for a great view of the sunset if you do hike up this hilltop fort.
• Panna Meena Ka Kund: Step-wells are quite a unique thing to observe in Jaipur and this 16th-century beauty is famous for its symmetrical geometric steps and pastel-coloured plaster. It's near Amber Fort and that was how I ended up there - taking a brief stop along our way up.

Why I Didn't Love Jaipur

After a week in the country, I was somewhat accustomed to the constant attention. But Jaipur cranked it up a notch.

Jaipur, the Pink City, had me at "hello" with its vibrant palaces and scenic beauty. The City Palace, the Amber Fort – everything was picture-perfect. But as much as I loved the sights, the constant barrage of hassle cast a shadow over my experience.

Walking down the streets became an obstacle course. Tuk-tuk drivers, shopkeepers – everyone seemed intent on grabbing my attention, often turning a polite "no" into an unwanted conversation. Here's the thing: safety wasn't a major concern. Being tall and well-built offered a certain level of comfort. But the constant stares, especially from groups of men, bordered on unnerving.

Turns out, these men weren't out to cause trouble. They were daily wage labourers waiting for work on the side of the road. Still, the collective gaze coupled with hushed whispers (about me, no doubt) created a tense atmosphere. My RBF (resting bitch face) and a firm "no" became my best defences, but constantly being on guard was exhausting and I couldn't wait to leave.

Back at the hostel, sharing stories with fellow travellers felt like a lifeline. I've never felt so relieved to get back to a safe space, and to be surrounded by like-minded travellers. Hearing others, even men, talk about similar experiences validated my frustration and soothed my emotional self. Some, like myself, also contemplated cutting their India trip short.

Jaipur might have left me feeling overwhelmed, but I'm glad I persevered. Kolkata, my next stop, completely transformed my perception of India.

Street Food Feast: a delicious escape

Jaipur's vibrant streets are a feast for the senses, and the food scene, thankfully, was a saving grace during my visit. On my last full day in Jaipur, I persuaded a few  hostel friends to join me for lunch, indulging in a variety of incredible street food delights at this food court called Masala Chowk.

One of the downsides of solo travel is the challenge of portion sizes. You can only order so much food at once! But with friends by my side, this became a non-issue. We were able to share and sample a wider array of dishes, turning lunch into a full-blown culinary exploration.

We got started with two classic Indian snacks: dahi patasi and chaat. Both were surprisingly affordable at just 50 rupees each, and the explosion of flavours in each bite was simply delightful.

Next up was a dish that caught my eye – moong dal childa for 150 rupees. This mung bean pancake was a must-try and I really enjoyed watching the Indian uncle make them from start to finish.

The texture was unique and intriguing, and the accompanying sauces added another layer of complexity. It was also something I had not seen elsewhere up until then so that was a new one to try.

Craving some cheesy goodness, we grabbed a cheese pav bhaji. This dish features fluffy pav bread, perfect for dipping into a rich and flavourful vegetable gravy. Each bite was pure comfort food bliss! Definitely one of my faves from this food hall.

My friend then surprised me with a dish I'd never seen before – chole bhature. Imagine deep-fried bread transformed into a light and crispy dream, then dipped in a sauce/gravy that combined spicy and savoury notes, this became an instant top eat from this trip so far.

Finally, we ended our street food feast with the ever-popular dosa. These crispy, thin crepes filled with potato masala and accompanied by flavourful chutney were the perfect way to round off a truly satisfying meal.

Throughout our stay at this local spot, we were surrounded by other Indian locals enjoying their meals with family and friends, and that is always the number one way I authenticate a place.

Overall, this placewas vibrant, friendly, and clean, not to mention the prices were incredibly budget-friendly, while offering a plethora of options to tempt your taste buds.

So, if you find yourself wandering the streets of Jaipur, be sure to embark on your own street food adventure at Masala Chowk! You won't be disappointed.

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Day 8-9: Kolkata, the City of Joy

Not sure where Kolkata got the nickname "the City of Joy" but I certainly felt joy here. Kolkata (once named Calcutta thanks to the British colonisation) can be described as a time capsule of India's rich past, bustling with chaotic energy. Despite the chaos, it provided a delightful contrast to the whirlwind of my previous Indian destinations. Here, the final two days of my trip unfolded at a relaxed and enjoyable pace.

I left Jaipur around 10am on a flight that landed in Kolkata around noon. Indulging in a luxurious stay at a converted heritage house (shoutout to Calcutta Bungalow!), I finally had some much-needed space to unwind after the bustling energy of other cities.

This hotel stay was a lifesaver after all the craziness since Udaipur and the wedding. Don't get me wrong, I usually love hostels and meeting people, but India had me craving some serious me-time. This place was my own little oasis – I chilled out, changed into some comfy clothes, and blasted the AC to escape the insane heat outside!

Feeling rejuvenated, I ventured out to explore the city's efficient metro system. A welcome feature was the presence of dedicated female carriages, and a refreshing change – the absence of intrusive stares.  Apparently, Kolkata holds the distinction of being the birthplace of the kathi roll, and I can confidently say this local specialty lived up to its reputation. The warm, layered paratha wrapped around a delicious filling makes a fabulous snack that I really needed and craved.

Most importantly, Kolkata offered a welcome respite from the constant attention I'd experienced elsewhere. Here, the atmosphere was more relaxed, allowing me to truly appreciate the city's sights and sounds. A friend from a previous stop in India served as my guide to the city's vibrant street food scene, introducing me to delectable delights like puchka, which is a bite-sized Indian street food. It's the Kolkata version to what is otherwise known as pani puri. It is a crispy ball filled with potato and spices, then dipped in flavoured water (tamarind ones here) for a fun pop of flavour and texture.

The following day, a delightful breakfast at my hotel fuelled my exploration of Kolkata's colonial past. Later, I ventured into Chinatown, eager to sample the city's renowned Indo-Chinese cuisine. The wait was well worth it – the wontons were a revelation, and I thoroughly enjoyed the slight change from the strict Indian food diet I'd assigned myself for the past nine days.

Kolkata's charm resided not just in its sights and cuisine, but in its lack of overwhelming tourist attractions. It was a city that invited a more leisurely pace – a chance to simply wander, explore, and savour the moment. My final meal in Kolkata perfectly captured this essence: spicy momo from a street vendor, enjoyed amidst friendly locals.

Kolkata transformed my perception of India. While the initial culture shock remained, this city offered a more relaxed and genuinely charming experience. It served as the perfect finale to my Indian adventure, leaving me with positive and memorable experiences. It's like the India that your grandma might tell stories about - old-school cool but with a chaotic twist. Forget fancy museums, Kolkata's got stunning buildings like the Victoria Memorial that practically scream "British Empire was here!"  Think Big Ben's cooler cousin. Street food is king here, and that definitely was the case for me during my stay.

People-watching also took up most of my time here in Kolkata. Everyone was really friendly, and I felt way safer here than anywhere else I had been to this trip. The city is definitely not afraid to be messy. It should come as no surprise that grand buildings might be right next to crazy markets, and peaceful alleyways can open up into a crowd of a million people.

Tips

• The Kolkata metro is a fantastic option for navigating the city – affordable, efficient, and featuring female carriages for added comfort.
• Consider incorporating some street food into your Kolkata itinerary – the city boasts a vibrant and delicious scene.
• Embrace the relaxed pace of Kolkata – it's a city that invites exploration and savouring the moment.

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